Did some work as a freelance macro programmer couple years back that was on part with final projects for fourth year students, so I pick up on languages decent enough. Sure it was Basic, but I've played around with C++ and a little with Python before. As for keeping the box safe, I plan on keeping it secured in the glove box with wires entering through the side that way very little is visible from the dash other than my screen.ineverwrit wrote:...It's likely that you'd want to ensure good electrical isolation between the Pi and the car electrics - possibly optoisolators/relays?. It might also be worth mounting the Pi in a shielded box electrically connected to the chassis.
The other person did suggest optoisolators. No one likes to eat fried pi.Keegod wrote:I haven't dealt with hardware very much, just the software. Basically, if someone tells me where I should physically hook up and how to get the car battery to connect in the correct polarity I'll be able to handle the programming no sweat. It's just my first larger project so I'm looking for a little heads up
Metasyntactic wrote:I think my first thing to check would be the voltage and amperage your glove box light draws. Couldn't even begin to tell you if it's enough or stable enough to power a PI but it's certainly an idea. Out of curiosity, why go to the trouble of controlling the heat controls with motors? I mean, it sounds like you're already okay doing some serious changes to the cars so why not just solder to the controls behind the dashboard? That way you can maintain access to the buttons while also being able to control them via the pi.
Edit: I'll be honest, I've ALWAYS been tempted to do a James Bond car if I had the time and money. I'd have to disable half the stuff in order to make it street legal but it seems like it'd be a super fun project.
I need to look into what those are. Like I said, pretty new to the hardware side of the house. And agreed, definitely want to avoid fried pistderr wrote: The other person did suggest optoisolators. No one likes to eat fried pi.
The idea is to isolate the pi from everything else. The data connections are one vulnerability point so by attaching them (somehow) to something without a direct physical connection to the car, you gain protection. An optoisolator can use light to send the data from, say, a diode to a sensor. Light isn't an electrical connection, so if something happens on the other side, something within the capabilities of the device to deal with, damage shouldn't get across the optoisolator. Of course it could be destroyed but that's better than the pi being done in.Keegod wrote:I need to look into what those are. Like I said, pretty new to the hardware side of the house. And agreed, definitely want to avoid fried pistderr wrote: The other person did suggest optoisolators. No one likes to eat fried pi.
Well, so, the issue with that is, besides the issue of mounting motors and making sure they don't break, you have to actually run them. I mean, I guess you could use servos, but even then, it's a little annoying. The nobs you're looking to control are just potentiometers though, right? Or possibly push buttons? All you need is a digital potentiometer (obviously not if it's a push button). They're literally intended for this application.Keegod wrote: I'm going to be placing a 7 inch screen where the controls currently are as an inboard interface (I hope to later use the pi to control the car computer for quick select of presets for fuel efficiency) and so I'm going to recess the controls and attach position motors so that I don't need to deal with them. I was thinking of just normal motors, and sync them to a 1 to 1 with a rotation display on screen, but decided I might screw that up way too easily.