Actually I was talking about using the $35 dollar pi from the get go, no sense buying the model a and then have to pay for an ethernet adapter as well
I don\'t know that the $5-$10 max is accurate, it was a rough guess on my part based on what I\'m estimating would be the total cost of the chip, additional ports, and cost of additional layer spread out over the cost of the entire batch.
I\'ve been thinking more and more about the original issue. Could you power the device via the USB hub. I still like Obart\'s idea of splitting the line coming off the PSU and taking it to both the hub and the r-pi, but I want this to be transparent because that\'s cooler
So here\'s my thought. Crack open that USB hub and solder a jumper cable from the +5 and ground pins on the USB power jack. On the uplink port, cut the power pins of the USB port and attach them to the jumper wires.
Then over on the r-pi cut the power pins on one of the ports to they\'re not attached to the PCB. Take two more jumper cables and solder them from the power pins (which is technically receiving power straight from the PSU at this point) and attach the other end to the micro USB form factor power supply power pins.
The data still transfers over the affected port allowing the uplink to function properly, but take the power straight to the micro usb power jack. The USB devices shouldn\'t care as they\'re all receiving power from the USB hub anyway.
And externally one wire is traveling from the hub to the r-pi keeping things neat and clean.