Modifying a 3.5" car display for USB power.

[julien760]

Thank you very much!

I tried to connect it to a 5V source, and you were right - it just worked fine!



To help anybody with the same board - my setup in the picture above is:

3.7V 2200mAh Battery
Battery Charger
Power Boost 500 (Boost your 3.7V to 5V)

Connect the red an black wire from the display to the Power Boost + and -
Connect the white or yellow cable to raspberry pi video output
Fire up the raspberry pi

Should work!

Hello,

I have got the same pcb but I am not able to power with 5v or 3.3v.

I have made some test with raspberry GPIO (3.3v and 5v) outpout and with a USB cable (5v) and the monitor do not turn on.

With 12v, it works perfectly. I use a raspberry pi 1.

Can you help me ?

[Datleeroy]

I need help. i dont know Who Change from 9v to 5v

https://picload.org/thumbnail/rrpiidrg/ ... 758852.jpg

This its the Bord


Sorry for my Bad englisch

[duall]

hello Datleeroy
Have you tried without changing anything ?

[Datleeroy]

nothing work
i have found a point who going the screen on i see only a withe screen

[Makarone]

Hi Guys, i have the same board as some of you here.
When i tried to run it from 5v it doesn't work, but with 12 everything is fine.
I have checked it with multimeter.
On the attached images you can see the voltage when powered from different sources. (5v and 12v)

Open image in the new tab to see it in larger size



Is it possible to make it run correct from the 5v? Maybe i need to remove something from the board?

Thanks!

UPDATE:
Funny, but it hasn't worked because i've powered it from pc usb( not enough A ), when i tried to use 1A phone charger then it works!
But the screen flashes every second. Maybe it flashes because of low power even from charger.
Still searching on that.

[Makarone]

FIXED!





I have wired 5v signal directly to the 2nd pin of the a5269 with additional wire,
and now display is not blinking. Looks like everything is fine now!

Hope someone will find an answer for self here!

[owen.global]

Hi, Can anyone help me with this:

board2.jpg (52.08 KiB) Viewed 6517 times

Its a fairly new boards i think.

Hope someone can help.

O

[incroyablelux]

Hi guys

I bought this screen http://www.dx.com/fr/p/5-0-led-display- ... els-152008

He seams to work in 5V.


When I put the alimentation here :


I guess it’s maybe an USB port, so It’s better to add a GND cable here, better is ?

[facebraker]

Hey owen.global,

i had the same board, i connec Pin2 (output) direct with 5V , and the ground pin with the ground directly.


the point on the chip marked the Pin1 the next pin on the same side is pin2 (OUTPUT 5V)
On the other side is ground



it works for me!

Greets Alex

[Mat3ck]

Hi everyone,

I think it's here we ask for screens so, does someone know if this screen can be made 5V compatible ? It's a 5" screen (I need a bigger one and it has a great resolution).

http://www.buydisplay.com/default/5-inc ... iver-board

And how it can be done? Removing the regulator I think ?
Or could you maybe give me a link of another 5" screen which is 5V compatible please ?

Thanks a lot,

Mat3ck.

[tinylcd]

Hello

how about going for this ready to use 5 inch screen

power drawn from pi usb port

http://www.neosecsolutions.com//index.p ... 3d99c0cc93

regards
tinylcd

[Mat3ck]

Aw ! That's awesome thank you !

[Graa]

Need som help cant get the screen to work.

I have taken away the xl1509 chip(maybe the problem) tested adding wiers to it before i removed It.

I get some life signs from the screen when i add power to the 2 pin were xl1509 were.

Anyone got en idé?

Image
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xz3e0uppqo1qd ... 8.jpg?dl=0

[BMS Doug]

Need som help cant get the screen to work.

I have taken away the xl1509 chip(maybe the problem) tested adding wiers to it before i removed It.

I get some life signs from the screen when i add power to the 2 pin were xl1509 were.

Anyone got en idé?

Image
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xz3e0uppqo1qd ... 8.jpg?dl=0

You only have 2 of the 4 wires soldered onto your board, connect the 5V from GPIO header pin 2 to where pin 2 of the XL1509 was.

you have assumed that the Pi Gnd and the RCA Gnd are the same, this might be correct, I'm not sure but I would connect the RCA gnd from the Pi to the display anyway.

[iaino]

Hi Guys,

I found this thread and it's been incredibly useful for altering an old screen i had to work with 5v, so a massive thank you to everyone!

I registered today so I could post this information in case it is useful to anyone:

I bought this screen recently from an amazon seller called 'Feeego'
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009V7WQFK/

It works perfectly from a 5V supply without any alterations at all and it even looks like it might have a touchscreen attached to it!
(correct me if I'm wrong, there's a good chance i am!)

Cheers!

Iaino

[Lordasriell]

Hello,

i didn't have the same board as you, but i was able to make it work at 5.2v.
The Step-Down Converter ,wich is a JW5022 (datasheet here) output 5v on pin 3 (see datasheet), so by putting 5v directly on this pin it will work like a charm ( maybe i can take of the chip too ?)

http://imgur.com/3VDslSd
the board itself (i don't think i have seen it in the topic ?)


http://imgur.com/bIwEC5f
the JW5022 Synchronous Step-Down Converter (sorry i took the picture after the mod so we can't really see the name)

http://imgur.com/ds6Iu6b
The screen working with a Pi zero w, both on a gba sp battery. (850mha, maybe a little bit low )

i thought this might help someone ^^

[b0b the builder]

Hi,
I have read this ENTIRE thread looking for an answer to my problems.

I have purchased a screen, the board is a little different layout to those on here, but apparently using the same components.
I had two voltage regulators on the board, an STK17 3.3 k613 that seems to take a 5v input and drop it to 3.3v and power the MCU on the board, and a xl1509-5 . 0E1 63620 that was taking a 12V input.

I tried to lift the pin on the XL1509 for activation and tie it high in order to turn the chip off. however the leg ripped right out of the chip, (the first time I have ever had this happen, im well experienced with a soldering iron)

So faced with a dead xl1509 I proceeded to completely remove it from the PCB. I didnt measure any of its inputs or outputs before this happened.
I did try applying 5v to the 12v input before modding the screen and it just had some banding and a white screen.

after removing the chip, I shorted the input and output traces on the PCB with a solder bridge and applied 5V to the original 12v input pin, this didnt work, I measured a significant voltage drop across the input diode, and then through the input torid coil and only approx 4v was getting to the output pin on the PCB where the xl1509 was.

So I soldered my 5v input directly to the output pin, and VIOLA it worked, great, I got on with some gaming etc and setting up the system, after about 2 hours, I noticed that the screen had some scrolling "interference " on it. So i looked at the back of the screen and could feel heat coming from it. There are several components that get MEGA hot.
there are two 220 10v VT caps on the board that get baking hot, two torid coils marked 101 next to them that also get hot, and the MCU gets hot,
For now I have stuck a heatsink on the MCU. and the problem takes a bit longer to arrive.

But only one post on this thread mentions overheating, and no one anwered it.
does anyone have any experience after years of modding these screens that can help me out?
I am going to take a thermal snapshot of the board and try to see if anything else looks hot, and get a real value for the caps other than baking hot.
But I cant think of any reason why a cap would heat up other than 1: being defective 2: high ripple and 3: being shorted out.
it isnt shorted out, there shouldnt be much ripple as its powered from a 5v power bank with DC voltage coming from a DC lithium cell and then being stepped up. so that leaves me assuming that its defective.

[b0b the builder]

ive checked with a thermal camera , and there is an IC labelled lps f3601 which is running hottest, right by a schotkky diode, it looks like it probably has something to do with the backlight,

I will get a higher res (640x480) thermal shot to post later when I have more time,

in the meantime I added a ceramic cap to one of the elecs that was getting hot, and it seems that the modded one runs cooler than the unmodded.

I also stuck my multimeter on the caps in HZ mode and the two that get hot have definately got some ripple present, the ones that run cool showed 0Hz

[NikolaMladenovic]

Hello everyone!

I could use some help with this screen that everyone's talking about. The original post's pictures are gone and since english isn't my first language it's kind of hard to follow the steps without any pictures. And since this thread was posted 2012 I'm pretty sure mine's different. I searched this hole thread for any instructions (with pictures) that looked like mine but couldn't find anything though. So maybe there's someone out there with the same circuit as me who could help me modify it. I want it to run at 5v instead of 12v. I have pictures with this post and thanks in advance.

Also sorry for the bad quality on the photos. I had to crop them a lot since the maximum file size here is 34kb.

[BMS Doug]

Hello everyone!

I could use some help with this screen that everyone's talking about. The original post's pictures are gone and since english isn't my first language it's kind of hard to follow the steps without any pictures. And since this thread was posted 2012 I'm pretty sure mine's different. I searched this hole thread for any instructions (with pictures) that looked like mine but couldn't find anything though. So maybe there's someone out there with the same circuit as me who could help me modify it. I want it to run at 5v instead of 12v. I have pictures with this post and thanks in advance.

Also sorry for the bad quality on the photos. I had to crop them a lot since the maximum file size here is 34kb.

Hi Nikola,

There are many variations on these boards but the concept is fairly straightforward.

The display board uses a voltage regulator to drop the incoming voltage from 12V to whatever its designed to run at (Usually 5V or 3V3).

If your board is designed to work at 3V3 then you are done, just attach the 5V supply where the 12V supply would be connected and your display will work.

If your board is designed to work at 5V then you will need to bypass the voltage regulator chip (right hand side of the board).

High definition pictures can be hosted on an external website and then a link provided to the image using [img][/img] tags.

[NikolaMladenovic]

Hello everyone!

I could use some help with this screen that everyone's talking about. The original post's pictures are gone and since english isn't my first language it's kind of hard to follow the steps without any pictures. And since this thread was posted 2012 I'm pretty sure mine's different. I searched this hole thread for any instructions (with pictures) that looked like mine but couldn't find anything though. So maybe there's someone out there with the same circuit as me who could help me modify it. I want it to run at 5v instead of 12v. I have pictures with this post and thanks in advance.

Also sorry for the bad quality on the photos. I had to crop them a lot since the maximum file size here is 34kb.

Hi Nikola,

There are many variations on these boards but the concept is fairly straightforward.

The display board uses a voltage regulator to drop the incoming voltage from 12V to whatever its designed to run at (Usually 5V or 3V3).

If your board is designed to work at 3V3 then you are done, just attach the 5V supply where the 12V supply would be connected and your display will work.

If your board is designed to work at 5V then you will need to bypass the voltage regulator chip (right hand side of the board).

High definition pictures can be hosted on an external website and then a link provided to the image using [img][/img] tags.

Thanks a lot! Just one more question. How do I know if it works at 3V3 or 5V?

[BMS Doug]

The easiest way is to try it with a 5V supply, if it works then you don't have to worry any further, if not then we need to get the details from the voltage regulator chip, they are normally XL1509-3.3 or XL1509-5.0 (for 3V3 or 5V respectively).

If you have a XL1509 ADJ then using a voltmeter to figure out the output voltage (when fed by 12V) might be necessary. If you have a different brand of voltage regulator then grab the chip identifier and we can google it.

[NikolaMladenovic]

The easiest way is to try it with a 5V supply, if it works then you don't have to worry any further, if not then we need to get the details from the voltage regulator chip, they are normally XL1509-3.3 or XL1509-5.0 (for 3V3 or 5V respectively).

If you have a XL1509 ADJ then using a voltmeter to figure out the output voltage (when fed by 12V) might be necessary. If you have a different brand of voltage regulator then grab the chip identifier and we can google it.

Thanks A LOT man! This is extremely helpful! I will do as you've said and hopefully this will work.

[NikolaMladenovic]

The easiest way is to try it with a 5V supply, if it works then you don't have to worry any further, if not then we need to get the details from the voltage regulator chip, they are normally XL1509-3.3 or XL1509-5.0 (for 3V3 or 5V respectively).

If you have a XL1509 ADJ then using a voltmeter to figure out the output voltage (when fed by 12V) might be necessary. If you have a different brand of voltage regulator then grab the chip identifier and we can google it.

Ok I checked and saw that it was a Xl1509 5v power regulator and I don't really know what to do now... And how do I give it 5v. Where's the input because the instructions won't tell me. Thanks again dude!

[BMS Doug]

it works for me!

Greets Alex

Pin 2 outputs the 5V, that is where you need to solder your 5v supply wire.